Turkey2005

Sana kolay gelsin: may it be easy!

2006-08-06T18:20:00.000-06:00

More than a year after the trip to Turkey, I'm still using instant messenger to keep in touch with friends like Celile Bozkir, the Bakir family, Necati Demircan, Bulent Tuzun, the Karaselcuk family, Ata Onucak, Merve Gokben, and more.

I'm also still listening to music by artists like Sezen Aksu, Burcu Gunes, Tarkan, Athena, Yalin, and Kenan Dogulu. Not understanding most of the lyrics means I absorb the music's varied and enchanting melody and tone.

But slowly, I'm learning what the lyrics are about. Our translator from the weekend in Sakarya, the delightful Celile, has been explaining the lyrics' meaning. This has, of course, helped my understanding of the Turkish language. There are few better people to ask than Celile, a university English teacher in Istanbul.

"What does the word 'ask' mean?" I asked. "It appears in several song titles by Athena." "'Ask' means LOVE!" she replied.

Without a doubt, I was feeling pretty confident about my vocabulary when young Mr. Kaan Karaselcuk said merhaba one day. During our team's stay in Mersin last year, Kaan's mother Nilufer had been encouraging him to work on his English skills.

But on this day, I had no phrasebook with me, and this fact led to a discussion about sports, geography, and food. We talked about the Galatasaray, Fenerbahce, and Besiktas football teams, the Akdeniz (Mediterranean Sea), and delicious kebabs, sucuk, and kahve. And when it came time to go, I remembered a word Celile had taught me: 'calismak' (work).

My Turkish phrasebook is now a permanent fixture next to my desk. Talking to my friends in Turkey definitely helps ease the day. As Celile explained, "sana kolay gelsin" (may it be easy).

Six months later...

2005-11-14T23:17:00.000-07:00

Can it really be? Jan pointed out in an email to our team last weekend that it's been six months since our trip.

Six months ago today, I was eating pistachio-covered ice cream with Firuz and Duthan Harbiyeli (left) in Antakya after the Rotary Kulubu meeting, and after receiving valuable tennis tutoring from Firuz!

The Harbiyelis' son, Ibrahim Inan, is one of the Turks with whom I've corresponded since the trip. Inan was away at Mersin University during our trip, but Firuz and Duthan showed him the blog, and he emailed me to say "hello from Antioch".

Ilhan Karaselcuk and I have chatted a few times on instant messenger. His web cam showed Mersin's summertime sunset visible through the Karaselcuklar office window. Ilhan said that his wife Nilufer had visited her sister in Tunisia, and that a few weeks later, Nilufer's sister visited Mersin. The Karaselcuks are at right.

Thanks to instant messenger, Merve Gokben and I have also kept in touch. She's a student in International Relations at Ankara's Middle East Technical University. Merve joined us for Sunday brunch in Konya. Today she told me about her midterm paper for METU.

The midterm topic was idealism and liberalism, and Merve wrote a play about post-Cold War politics called "God is confused". Baffled by events following the Cold War, God starts to question political actors. In the end, he decides not to interfere with worldly issues, and lets mortals determine their own fates. God instead opts to think about heavenly issues, which as Merve (at left) explained, are more entertaining. What a great concept for a paper!

Today I also learned that Konya is also the home to the inventor of Orkut.com, a social networking community from Google. The website's founder, Orkut Buyukkokten, is from Konya and is also a graduate of Bilkent University in Ankara (which we visited on our last day in Ankara).

Since our return to Denver, my teammates and I have remained close, meeting up once a month or so. In July, I hosted a Turkish themed party, and a month later we gathered for Bethany's birthday (mutlu yillar Betty!). Steve and Juliet hosted a party in September, and in October Lisa invited us to a night of salsa dancing to raise funds for Intercambio de Comunidades, a non-profit whose goal is to increase opportunities and independence for Latino immigrants.

The evening of salsa dancing evoked memories of our last stop in Ankara, when we salsa danced at the Ankara Hilton (at right).

As we approach Thanksgiving next week and give thanks for what the year has brought (and yes, enjoy the other turkey, the poultry), I'm most thankful to the kind people of Turkey and to my teammates for an experience that has forever changed me. Tesekkurlar!

Antakya on History Channel

2005-11-06T20:49:00.000-07:00

The History Channel's series "The Crusades: Crescent & the Cross" begins this week. The first episode features Antioch, and includes video of the church we saw in Antakya, overlooking the city.

Turkish (and Greek) market in Denver!

2005-06-20T17:40:00.000-06:00

The Arabaga Turk kahve I'd brought into the office didn't last long. My co-worker Andres and I finished it off in about two weeks, drinking it during our breaks. The proper way to prepare Turk kahve, as Nilufer Karaselcuk had explained in Mersin, is over a stovetop, using a copper pitcher. Andres and I had to improvise by using a microwave oven. (Sorry, Nilufer...)

Turk kahve and cay ("chai") - this photo was taken at our May 17 visit to the Mersin Chamber of Commerce

At any rate, the Turk kahve was depleted, and it was time to restock. My co-worker Igor advised me to check out the shops on Parker Road, across from the Colorado Muslim Center.

So this afternoon I visited the Nazar International Market, featuring fine international groceries and Halal meat. It's on the east side of Parker Road, between Jewell and Florida. As soon as I saw the blue "evil eye" adorning the store's sign, I knew I was in the right place.

Afiyet olsun! Cok iyi! The store's owners, a Turkish man named Erkan and a Greek woman named Suzan, helped me find all the goodies I loved in Turkey. I went home tonight with Mehmet Efendi Turk kahve, Bahcivan taze kasar (white cheese like the Urfa cheese I had for breakfast in Turkey), and Yoruk brand sucuk, the delicious beef sausage. The store doesn't currently have raki, but Erkan assured me they can get more.

Will I be going back? Evet!

A look back at the hosts

2005-06-13T23:09:00.000-06:00

This esteemed group, as varied as Turkey itself, includes two dentists, two English teachers, a speech pathologist, several engineers, and a urologist. From them I learned of the unity of a community recovering from an earthquake, I gained insight into the traditions of Islam, and I experienced the closeness of Turkish family life. I also grew to appreciate the passion of Turkish football (Galatasaray and Fenerbahce alike) and I also learned to love Turk sanat musik and Turkish pop music.

Bahadir Tanriluku - Ankara Emek
When my luggage was lost en route from Istanbul to Ankara, Bahadir talked to the good people of Turkish Airlines (Turk Hava Yollari) and sat with me in the Ankara airport. We drank Nescafe while waiting for my bag. When it arrived, Bahadir drove me to his home, where his mom Mukaddes treated us to tea and snacks, displaying the Turkish hospitality I'd become familiar with during my three-night stay with the Tanriluku family and over the next month in Turkey.

Bahadir Tanriluku (Ankara Emek RC) and mom Mukaddes

Taylan, Nermin and Ata Onucak - Adapazari
After riding in Rotarians' cars from Ankara, we met the Adapazari hosts roadside and were shuffled to Sakarya University, where we were treated to lunch and a university tour. This is a proud, tightly knit community which came together after a devastating earthquake in 1999. They made sure we saw Istanbul, even though (as it's outside Rotary district 2430) the legendary city was not part of our original tour. I stayed for two nights with Taylan and Nermin Onucak and their son Ata - and of course, their dog Gizmo, a little dog the size of Jesse's head. Taylan and Ata showed me one of their houses, which was ruined in the quake. Ata and I discussed music and basketball, and our Adapazari hosts took us to meet two mayors of Adapazari and the governor of Sakarya - right in the middle of a barbecue!

Ata Onucak with parents Nermin and Taylan (Adapazari RC)

Meryem Ciftci and Suat Nart - Iskenderun
After a three-day stay at the Dedeman Hotel in Nevsehir (Cappadocia region), we rode an overnight bus to Iskenderun, where for two nights I was the guest of Meryem Ciftci and Suat Nart. Meryem had participated in a GSE exchange to Australia in 2003. A former English teacher, Meryem now works in her father's export business. Suat is a high school teacher and basketball coach. Suat's sister and a friend were in town from Istanbul, where they are university students. They and I compared growing up and education in Turkey and the U.S.

Meryem Ciftci (Iskenderun Yarikkaya RC) with sister-in-law and friend, students at Istanbul, and with cat

Firuz and Duthan Harbiyeli - Antakya
From Iskenderun, we rode a morning minibus to Antakya, where Firuz Harbiyeli, a urologist who enjoys tennis and windsurfing, tolerated my creative tennis skills on a humid Saturday afternoon. After the Antakya RC meeting that evening, he and wife Duthan took me for a pistachio-topped ice cream cone that's the pride of Antakya. Firuz and Duthan practiced their English during my two-night stay, and my Turkish phrasebook was a constant companion, as I practiced my Turkish. This was where I first became familiar with phrases like "Afiyet olsun!", "Bir say digil", and "Hosca kilin".

Firuz Harbiyeli (Antakya RC) and wife Duthan

Ilhan, Nilufer, Kaan and Onur Karaselcuk - Mersin
The Antakya Rotarians bid us farewell near an ancient river in the city center, and we were off to Mersin, where we met our next hosts at the Hilton.

I stayed with Ilhan and Nilufer and their two sons (Kaan and Onur) for five days. Their dining room became my bedroom, and I spent mornings eating olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, sucuk and eggs in their kitchen, talking with Nilufer and watching Yalin's video for "Gunaydin" on the Turkce television channel. I surprised their housekeeper Ganja when, entering the kitchen, I greeted her with "Gunaydin, nasilsiniz?" Then Nilufer and I would watch as Onur boarded the Okul Tasiti (school bus) in the morning. Kaan and Onur are great kids whose future is bright in science, computers, or even the NBA.

Tesekkurlar, Ilhan and Nilufer!

Ilhan Karaselcuk (Mersin Kiskalesi RC), wife Nilufer and sons Kaan (11) and Onur (7)

Abdurrahman, Hacer, and Ezgi Ozkaynak - Konya
Galatasaray Cim Bom Bom and Allah Rahatlik Versin. Those are the two phrases I'll always cherish from my five-night stay with Abdurrahman and his family. We arrived there on a Saturday afternoon, after a riding from Mersin. Deeply faithful, he and Hacer open-mindedly discussed religion with me. Muslim or Catholic, we're all branches from the same tree, and I appreciate the discussion. I also cherish the 6:00 a.m. run with Abdurrahman as much as the late-night discussions on education with Hacer. This family also taught me to appreciate football. They cheered for Galatasaray, runners-up in the Turkish football championship on May 22, and Abdurrahman and I stayed up to watch Liverpool FC defeat AC Milan on penalty kicks three nights later.

Abdurrahman Ozkaynak (Konya Merem RC), wife Hacer and daughter Ezgi (11)

Noyan, Esma, and Murat Bakir - Ankara Kocatepe
After a ride with the Konya Rotarians to Antalya, we spent four nights in Antalya at the District 2430 conference, then rode an Ulusoy bus back to Ankara, our final stop. It was there that Noyan Bakir taught me the ways of Fenerbahce (sorry, Abdurrahman), showed me the rehabilitation he and wife Esma operate, and explained how the ornate marble paintings "Ebru" are made. As the final stop on the trip, it was especially bittersweet saying goodbye to the Bakirs (whose name means "copper"). I can still see Esma waving goodbye from the fourth floor window as Noyan and I drove away to the airport.

Noyan Bakir (Ankara Kocatepe RC) and wife Esma

Er Buyuk Kopek had a vacation too - and is a TV star!

2005-06-05T06:40:00.000-06:00

While I was in Turkey, Jesse stayed at the brand new, state-of-the-art Animal Lodge at Alameda East Veterinary Hospital. Though he didn't get to join me in enjoying Turkish food and swimming in the Mediterranean, he feasted on low-residue Iams Senior and swam in AEVH's water therapy pool, an underwater treadmill.

This pool allows dogs to exercise their joints at low resistance, while keeping their head above water. It helped Jesse's arthritis.

With Jesse and Animal Lodge's Kari, Molly, and Adrianna. They took great care of Jesse while I was in Turkey.

He even got on television. On June 1, KWGN's morning news featured the Animal Lodge, which recently celebrated its grand opening. Reporter Dan Daru saw Jesse lumbering along in the water therapy pool and said, "Look at this old paint! He's thinking, 'Get me out of here; this is so humiliating!'"

Jesse gazed up at the camera, his lip wedged over his lower tooth in his customary Winston Churchill pose. This prompted KWGN weathercaster Angie Austin to quip to the reporter, "Dan, I think that dog needs a dentist! Look at that tooth!"

KWGN anchor Tom Green also asked the reporter, "Dan, is that a dog or a cow?"

Seni Seviyorum, Turkiye!

2005-06-02T03:03:00.000-06:00

All my bags are packed and I'm ready to go. I'm leaving on a jet plane, I don't know when I'll be back again.

It's all over except the flying. With our hosts, Jan, Lisa, Bethany, Steve and I attended a terrific symphony performance Wednesday night at Baskent University, including Nabucco, the Madame Butterfly Overture, Gilgamesh, and a Sicilian Folk performance.

Baskent University Symphony takes a bow

Bethany left the show early to catch a bus en route to her departure point for the Greek Islands. Lisa left immediately afterwards to catch her bus for Istanbul. Noyan and Esma drove me home, where we ate cookies, drank coffee, and chatted. Then it was time to pack, a bittersweet task which is now done and I'm writing my final posting from Turkey. In 6 hours I will board a plane headed west.

Words cannot describe what an incredible month this has been. Thanks to all my hosts in district 2430: Bahadir Tanriluku (Ankara Emek), Taylan and Nermin (Adapazari), the Dedeman Hotel (Cappadocia), Meryem Ciftci and Suat Nart (Iskenderun Yarikkaya), Firuz and Duthan Harbiyeli (Antakya), Ilhan and Nilufer Karaselcuk (Mersin), Abdurrahman and Hacer Ozkaynak (Konya), and Noyan and Esma Bakir (Ankara Kocatepe) for inviting me into your homes and welcoming me as a temporary member of your family. I will never forget any of you.

Thanks to district 5430 for sponsoring me and thanks to my teammates Lisa, Steve, Bethany and Jan for all the laughs and camaraderie - for example, all the inside jokes.

Cok tesekkur ederim, Turkiye! Seni Seviyorum!

With Bethany, Lisa and Steve at district 2430 conference, Antalya, May 28

Bilkent University, Ankara Cyberpark, Symphony Orchestra

2005-06-01T18:02:00.000-06:00

On our final day in Ankara, we visited Bilkent University, where we met with history professor Barin Kayaoglu, exchange coordinator Aysegul Basol, and toured the library, reputed as one of one of the best university libraries in Europe.

Kayaoglu, who will soon be working in the U.S. at the University of Virginia, gave us a slideshow presentation on Turkey's history. By this point, the material was review for us, but we discussed social and political issues with the professor over lunch in the student dining center.

Lunch at Bilkent University. Professor Barin Kaytaoglu is at left.

After lunch we visited the Ankara Cyberpark, where Business Development Specialists Ozgur Sar and Kuzyehan Ozdemir showed off their state-of-the-art "incubation center" for startup technology businesses. Businesses are allowed to use this facility for one year, receiving a tax break. I asked Sar and Ozdemir to compare the costs of IT labor in Ankara to those in Eastern Europe (such as Moscow, Samara, Yerevan and Kiev). They said a university graduate from Bilkent in an entry level job would receive about 1,000 USD per month. But as Kayaoglu pointed out, where would you rather want to live? Yerevan or Ankara?

Tonight our hosts will be taking us to a symphony orchestra performance. We will see the Akdeniz Ulkeleri Genclik Senfoni Orkestrasi of Baskent Universitesi. The event is sponsored by the Ankara Bahceliever Rotary Kulubu. Then we will bid "gule gule" to Bethany and Lisa, who leave tonight on buses. Tomorrow Steve, Jan and I will bid "hosca kilin" to Ankara.

US Embassy, Turkish Psychology, Ebru, and Beyti Kebaps ... Why Not?

2005-06-01T02:38:00.000-06:00

Atakule Tower in Ankara, Turkey

After giving our final presentation of this trip today at the Ankara Kocatepe Rotary Club meeting, we hurried to the US Embassy on John F. Kennedy Caddesi, where we met with Counselor for Commercial Affairs Amer M. Kayani.

He said that US-Turkish relations are nearly back to the point they were before March 1, 2003, when Turkey declined to allow the U.S. to use its land as an entry point to Iraq. Responding to questions regarding cost being an obstacle to trade between the U.S., he said that if an entity is needed badly enough, cost is not an obstacle, but affirmed that China and Southeast Asia dominate the market for imports to the U.S.

Regarding software piracy, he said that Turkey has made strides in preventing illegal software, but cautioned that there is still more work to be done. Kayani also said that some 35% of software in the U.S. is pirated, and said that U.S. software companies need to devise more innovative means of preventing piracy.

After our visit to the embassy, we stopped at the Ulusoy bus office so Bethany and Lisa could buy tickets for their travels after the GSE trip, then met with the Turkish Psychological Association, an organization of particular vocational significance to Bethany (a psychologist), Lisa (a public health official), and Steve (the executive director of a day care center). I found it extremely interesting as well.

The representative we met with said that the standard for licensing psychologists in Turkey isn't as concrete as in the U.S. She said that the TPA favors Turkey joining the EU, as it would compel Turkey to offer greater resources and credibility for psychologists. She said many Turkish psychology students lack the necessary practical knowledge to succeed.

The psychology official also mentioned the traumatic effects of the 1999 earthquake in Turkey's Sakarya region. We visited Adapazari, capital of this province, from May 6-8, and were struck by the close-knit camaraderie of the community. It was like the U.S.'s attitude in the weeks following September 11, but for the people of Adapazari, the community spirit has endured. The TPA official said that some 500 of its psychologists worked with earthquake victims, and were trained in collaboration with UNICEF.

In helping the earthquake victims, TPA used practices called "Energy Psychology", involving positive and negative energy, and "EMDR" (Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing), a way of using patients' eye movements to treat their emotional trauma.

If the Adapazarians' compassion, appreciation of life and people, and sense of community is any indication, these treatments worked!

This evening, after my host Noyan presented each member of our team with Ebru (beautiful marble paintings), we ate dinner at a restaurant overlooking a lake south of Ankara. Rotarian Ali Morel recommended the Beyti kebap, a meat dish served with grilled onions and tomatoes.

At dinner with Pervin Demircan and Esma Bakir. The Beyti kepaps were history by this point.

It's like an Adana kebap, hot and spicy, but with garlic. "Beyti" is not to be confused with "Betty", the Turkified pronunciation of Bethany. We each have become accustomed to the Turks' pronunciations: Jan is "Zhan", Steve is "Stiv", Lisa is sometimes "Lizza", and occasionally I'm "Wictor".

But the Turkish version of my name (meaning winner) is Zafer, as Zafer the accountant told me in Iskenderun.

Tomorrow we will visit Bilkent University, and tomorrow night we'll enjoy a concert. And that will be it for our time as a group here in Turkey. Lisa and Bethany will board buses on Wednesday night, and the rest of us will board planes on Thursday morning.

We've seen almost every corner of this fascinating and historic land. We've seen the Black Sea and the Mediterranean Sea. We have ridden on planes and ships, buses and camels.

We've seen a young and vibrant nation that embassy counselor Amer Kayani today said, geographically, is "in a bad neighborhood". But I think Turkey will bring up the resale value.

The Turkish Psychological Association slideshow displayed a quote from Bernadette Devlin that is fitting not just for Turkey's future, but for anyone: "Yesterday I dared to struggle. Today I dare to win."

As the Turks are fond of saying, why not?

Turkish Grand National Assembly (TBMM)

2005-05-31T01:12:00.000-06:00

Our day on Monday began and ended with the Turkish Grand National Assembly (TBMM). In the morning, we toured the assembly building, saw the parliamentary library, committee meeting rooms, and the vast hall where parliament members meet.

In meeting room at Turkish Grand National Assembly in Ankara

For lunch, we visited a restaurant specializing in Iskender Kebabs: a cholesterol bomb, these include thinly sliced lamb with tomato sauce, served over pita bread and covered in peppers. After serving the food, the wait staff pour butter on the entree. Noyan told me later that most Turks only eat an Iskender kebab twice per year. Unlike an Adana Kebab, the name has nothing to do with geography. Someone named Iskender (Alexander) invented the dish some 150 years ago.

We spent the afternoon in Rotary president Necati Demircan's office sorting out travel and mailing arrangements for our team. Bethany is continuing on to Ismir and the Greek islands over the next few weeks. With a few phone calls to his contacts, Necati helped Bethany solidify her plans.

After picking me up from Necati's office, Noyan and Esma gave me a tour of the "Egitim ve Rehabilitasyon Merkezi" (education and rehabilitation center) they operate, the Ozel Istikon. With its beautiful gardens in front and bright classrooms inside, the children there clearly have a warm environment for learning.

Murat, Esma, and Noyan Bakir in front of the school Esma and Noyan operate

Then, as we hadn't eaten in at least two hours, we broke for dinner. Esma made mercimek corbasi soup (it tasted like lentil soup) and dolmas (grape leaf wraps covered in yogurt) for Noyan, Murat and me. We had kadayif (pistachio pastry roll) for dessert.

Then our hosts (Necati and Pervin Demircan, Noyan and Esma Bakir, and their colleagues) chauffeured Lisa, Bethany, Steve and me across town to the Bilkent University Sports International Center, where we got some much-needed exercise after all the food, to ensure we don't get "sistim" (fat).

Turkish Parliament Member Aziz Yazar of Hatay

After checking into the gym and wandering past the step machines and treadmills, we ran into Aziz Yazar, the white-haired, furrow-browed parliament member from Hatay we met in Iskenderun. He had been a guest of the Yarikkaya Rotary meeting we attended on May 13. He remembered us.

Peace at Home, Peace in the World

2005-05-30T01:32:00.000-06:00

Last Thursday, we left Konya for the District 2430 conference in Antalya, a resort city on Turkey's southern coast. While tanning on the Mediterranean beach, sleeping in enormous gazebos overlooking the sea, and dining on fresh salmon, fried bananas and sumptuous strawberries at the Xanadu Hotel, our group reflected a bit on our weeks in Turkey as we prepared a presentation for the conference.

With Bethany and Lisa at Xanadu Hotel

On Friday, at a beach party, we had a chance to visit with some of the Rotarians who have hosted us over the past few weeks. And throughout the weekend, we were able to see our GSE counterparts from Turkey, as three members of the GSE team who had spent April in Denver attended the Antalya conference.

On Saturday, before an audience of almost 700 people at the Gloria Hotel, Jan, Steve, Lisa, Bethany and I summarized our journey, each of us detailing visits to two cities and describing the impact the people in each city's Rotary club has had on us.

Turkey and Colorado GSE teams watch Turkey GSE leader Bulent Tuzun address conference

All along the way, each club's Rotarians have taken time out of their day to show off their cities for us and they've invited us into their homes. They have sat with us on minibuses, chaperoned us through museums, guided us through bazaars, sweated with us in hot steel mills, and drank endless cups of Cay with us in factories and offices.

By staying in homes, living with families, and experiencing Turkish home life for almost a month now, I better appreciate Ataturk's words: "Yurtta Sulh, Cihanda Sulh" (Peace at Home, Peace in the World).

And now we're back in the capital city, Ankara. On Sunday afternoon, we rode a giant Ulusoy bus north from Antalya. I'm staying until Thursday with Noyan Bakir, a dentist, and his wife Esma, a speech therapist. They operate a clinic for kids with problems such as autism. On Monday we are scheduled to visit Parliament, and we may possibly see the US Embassy on Tuesday. If time allows, we might also tour Noyan's clinic tomorrow.

Why do the Dervishes whirl to the left?

2005-05-30T00:56:00.000-06:00

Last week before leaving Konya, we visited the Mevlana Museum, former monastery of the Whirling Dervishes and Mevlana Jelaladdin Rumi. That night, the president of Konya's Rotary Club, who manages the Konya Hilton, arranged for us to attend a show with the dervishes at his hotel. Just us, the dervishes, and 20 camera-wielding Japanese tourists.

Born in 1207 in what is now Afghanistan, Mevlana eventually settled in Konya. Mevlana's belief system was changed after meeting a mysterious dervish named Shems of Tebriz in 1244. Their meeting is referred to as the 'meeting of two seas' and so began Mevlana's career as a scholar of mysticism. Mevlana's poetic masterpiece, Mesnevi, was written while mourning the 1247 murdr of Shems of Tebriz.

His most famous work includes this passage:

Whoever you may be, come

Even though you may be

An infidel, a pagan, or a fire-worshipper, come

Our brotherhood is not one of despair

Even though you have broken

Your vows of repentance a hundred times, come

After Mevlana's death, Mevlana's son organized his followers into an order called the Mevlevi, or Whirling Dervishes.

The dervishes' black outer garments represent mortals' unknowing of heaven. Their white capes, worn beneath the black, represent connection to God attained only after death. Their woolen hats represent gravestones.

Ataturk outlawed the dervishes in 1925 in an effort to separate church and state, but several orders remain as a religious brotherhood. The biggest is in Konya.

Bethany with new friends outside Mevlana Museum. Women are required to cover their heads in the museum, and these ladies helped Bethany adjust her wrap properly.

Our guide explained that Arabic is read (like Hebrew) from right to left, and this is also why the Dervishes whirl from right to left.

Turkish football, Islam, Journalism, and textiles in Konya

2005-05-23T23:22:00.000-06:00

During our first full day in Konya on Sunday, Abdurrahman taught me about the rituals surrounding Turkish football, and he and his wife Hacer taught me about Islam's traditions. I was glad to learn about both.

On Sunday morning, our group and hosts had brunch at the brand-new Birdem restaurant. Then Lisa's hosts (Ayhan Milci and his wife Jasmine) took Steve, Lisa, Bethany and me on a panoramic tour of Konya, including a church dating from the 2nd century A.D., a lake where we skipped rocks, and cay at an old house that featured an "engagement room" for preparation for a wedding.

That evening, I watched the Turkish football championshıp game between Galatarsaray and Fenerbahce with Abdurrahman, Hacer, daughter Ezgi, Abdurrahman's sister, brother-in-law, and nephew. Except for the brother-in-law, the whole family supported Galatarsaray. The brother-in-law supported Fenerbahce. Abdurrahman had taught me the cheer: "Galatarsaray, Cim Bom Bom!"

Abdurrahman's family enjoys the football match

The game was scoreless until about the 75th minute, when Fenerbahce scored. Momentum continued to swing against Galatarsaray when one of its players injured a knee late in the game. Fenerbachce went on to win 1-0.

Abdurrahman's sister wore a headscarf, and Abdurrahman described his brother-in-law as a "hard Muslim", and said that he'd made a pilgrimage to Mecca. We bonded through sport fandom, a universal language. Everyone kidded each other about their teams' successes and failures throughout the season. Galatasaray had beaten Fenerbahce during the regular season, but came up short in this contest.

After the football game, Abdurrahman, Hacer and I discussed numerous religious issues, including the marriage of clergy, the Da Vinci Code, the last two popes' stances on Islam, Muslim women's headscarves, other rituals within Islam, and the "tespih" (Muslim prayer beads).

Abdurrahman explained to me what the prayer positions represent: standing represents humanity, bowing represents animals; crouching represents plants; and laying prostrate represents thanking God and exhibiting reverence. Abdurrahman invited me to visit his mosque, and we visited it on Monday morning. He explained to me where the imam and his helpers stand, and where the worhsippers remove their shoes and wash themselves prior to entering the mosque.

After this, Abdurrahman and I joined the rest of the group, and we visited Selcuk University, including the Mass Communications department, where we had a spirited discussion about freedom of speech and censorship in Turkey and in the U.S, as well as about journalistic bias. I felt like I'd been taken back 10 years to my journalism classes at DU. My opinion is the same as it was then. Given one's bias, it's impossible to remain objective in reporting, but it is possible to set those biases aside and strive to be fair.

We also visited the newspaper Yeni Meram (New Meram), where we discussed editorial freedom and where the editor's puppy peed on my hand.

At the Vela Sock Factory, we were each given personalized socks

We also toured the Vela Sock Factory, where we saw a computer program used to design fabric for one of Turkey's leading exporters. The software can control 1248 needles on a massive sewing machine. Following this tour, we discussed China's growing role in the textile industry, and how this has affected Turkey and the U.S.

Onward to Konya after feasting in Mersin

2005-05-22T17:30:00.000-06:00

We left Mersin Saturday morning after a heartfelt sendoff Friday evening. Our group attended a party on Friday night that featured all sorts of excellent food, such as borek, a potato bread made with red peppers, black peppers, olive oil, salt, onion, and ground potatoes rolled into a dough. They're Turkey's version of the pierogie. We also had icli kofte (a chicken pierogie), biber salca (bread covered with a peppery spread), and for dessert, profiterol (an eclair-like dessert).

Mersin Rotarians bid us "Gule Gule"

The Mersin rotarians sent us off on Satuday morning, and we journeyed six hours northwest by bus to Konya. Yesterday I heard the analogy that Mersin is like California, and Konya is like Alabama: conservative and religious. Women in headscarves are more common here than elsewhere in Turkey, and Konya is the home of the Mevlani mystic dancers, the Whirling Dervishes.

I will be staying until Thursday morning with Abdurrahman Ozkaynak, his wife Hacer, and their daughter Ezgi. Abdurrahman is a former banking manager who recently started his own wood pellet business. Hacer teaches high school English, and Ezgi (11) attends a private school. After I arrived Saturday afternoon, we had dinner (tavuk and dolmas...chicken and stuffed peppers), and discussed politics, international relations and religion.

Hacer and Abdurrahman Ozkaynak with daughter Ezgi

The Ozkaynaks' feeling on the EU is that it isn't necessary for Turkey to join, but that in its efforts to join the EU, Turkey would make improvements that would benefit its people regardless of whether membership is ultimately achieved.

As Ilhan pointed out to me Saturday morning, some elements of Turkey's infrastructure are sorely outdated. On the way to the bus station, we passed a train station that Ilhan said was built during the 1920s and hasn't been renovated since. Thus, travelers largely rely on bus transportation, much of which is European-owned, rather than on Turkish trains.

A chemical factory with a zoo

2005-05-20T16:52:00.000-06:00

Ilhan and Nilufer invited Lisa and her hosts, Tufan and Dilek, over for dinner on Thursday night, along with Tufan and Dilek's daughter Sevin and son Levant. Steve joined us as well. His host was a bachelor for the week, and Dilek and Nilufer wanted to make sure Steve didn't go hungry. Not possible in Turkey!

Sevin, Lisa, and Nilufer take a break from shopping in Mersin

The highlight of the evening included a ravioli-like dish called manti, made by Ilhan's mother. Nilufer says it takes 4 hours to make. Steve and I each had two helpings. It's topped with a yogurt dressing that includes garlic. For dessert we had chocolate cake and Turkish kahve (coffee); Nilufer showed Lisa how to make Turk kahve.

Despite the Turk kahve, I was asleep by the end of the dinner party. It had been a busy day that began with a run on the beach with Lisa, Steve, Nilufer and Dilek. In the morning we saw the ruins of a Roman theater, and in the afternoon the Kizkalesi Rotarians took us to the beach, where we relaxed, had lunch at the Hotel Barbarossa, and swam 500 meters to and from the Maiden Castle ("Kizkalesi" in Turkish), built by the Armenians in the 11th century (as Sarah from Mersin University explained to us).

Mersin Rotarians with Kizkalesi Castle in background

This morning we visited the Soda Sanayii plant (http://www.sodakrom.com), the sole producer of soda ash and chromium chemicals in Turkey. As a souvenir, their director gave us each a packet of baking soda. It will be interesting explaining that to the customs officials at JFK!

The Soda Sanayii plant is very environmentally friendly, and they even have a small zoo outside with ostriches, goats, and pelicans.

You learn something new everyday

2005-05-19T01:24:00.000-06:00

My host Ilhan has been reading my journal and pointed out that readers in the US might not have their web browsers enabled to read the Turkish characters. These include a C with a tail (pronounced "ch"), S with a tail ("sh"), U with two dots above, O with two dots above, lowercase i without a dot, and uppercase I with a dot (as in Istanbul, Iskenderun, and Ilhan).

So while Ilhan watched the Turkish version of "The Apprentice", he kindly let me use his computer to correct my characters. Tesekkur ederim, Ilhan.

Today was another eventful day. We saw the old Roman road in Tarsus, as well as St. Paul's Well, St. Paul's Church, an American high school in Tarsus, and a glass bottling plant, the only one of its kind in Turkey. We had lunch next to a tranquil and colorful waterfall.

Soda Sanayi bottling plant. Here they're making ketchup bottles.

This evening we had dinner at a Mersin tennis club with representatives from the Chamber of Commerce.

Food continues to be a popular topic. Last night, Lisa's host Tufan had us over for dinner, and his wife baked a delicious chocolate cake whose secret, she said, was to soak it in cold milk. She gave Lisa the recipe, measured in increments of Turkish cay glasses. At the end of the recipe, she wrote "then give to Victor to taste".

The attendees at Tufan's house on Tuesday night also teased me for skinning a fried with with my silverware. They joked that "he must be high society, not like us who live downtown". I tried to reply in Turkish, "hayir" (no) ... which sounds like "higher"! Higher society!

On Wednesday afternoon (after the glass factory) we visited Tufan's father's farm outside Mersin. He has dogs named Hammer and Cafe who monitor the farm. Tufan's father didn't catch my name at first, but once someone introduced me as "Victor Hugo" he got it and proceeded to put Lisa and me to work picking "yeni dunya" ("new word"), a Maltese plum.

Delicious!

Kaanbey ve Onurbey (Mr Kaan and Mr Onur)

2005-05-17T18:30:00.000-06:00

My host family in Mersin are the first with young children: Kaan (11) and Onur (7), whose names mean "emperor" and "honor". They're Nilufer and İlhan's children. The children are very westernized - Kaan was sporting a Larry Bird #33 Celtics jersey - and both children know English but are too shy to speak much of it.

Ilhan, Nilufer, Kaan and Onur Karaselcuk

Nilufer showed me Onur's English homework, where he had drawn a family tree, and his English skills are very solid. They giggled at my attempts to speak Turkish, and this seemed to bring them out of their shell a bit in speaking English.

During Monday night's Rotary meeting, Jan, Bethany, Lisa, Steve and I were presented with Muslim prayer beads, which come in sets of 99 or 33. As a guide explained to us on Sunday in Antakya, when we visited a mosque, these bead sets are sort of the Muslim version of a rosary. The worshipper would either complete one round of the 99 beads, or three rounds of the 33 beads. It is a bit of culture I knew nothing about.

On Monday night after Kaan and Onur went to bed, Nilufer, Ilhan and I sat in the condominium chatting about history, politics, information technology, dental offices and numerous other issues as traffic sped by below on Ismet Inonu Bulvari, Mersin's main boulevard. Mersin seems to be the Miami of Turkey, while Iskenderun might be the country's version of Pittsburgh, the heart of industry, though with palm trees and a beach. Cappadocia is quite a lot like the southwestern U.S., with beautiful land formations and dry deserts. Ankara is very reminiscent of Colorado, with a high elevation, dry climate and mountains.

Today our group visited Mersin University, a state of the art institution which opened in 1992. There I met with staff from the computer science and mass communication departments. These departments have "smart classrooms". Our group also met with members of the Maritime Chamber of Commerce and the Chamber of Commerce. Tomorrow we will visit Tarsus, hometown of St. Paul. It also boasts a waterfall, the Cleopatra Gate (where according to legend, she met Antony) and an old Roman road.

Tennis with a Turkish urologist in Antakya

2005-05-16T15:54:00.000-06:00

I'm writing from Mersin, in southern Turkey along the Mediterranean coast, from the office of Ilhan Karaselcuk, owner of his own computer retail business for 13 years. Ilhan's wife Nilufer is a dentist. Ilhan also built his Rotary club's website (http://www.kizkalesi.org) and will be its president in 2007.

Our group rode in a minibus for 3 hours this morning from Antakya to here. We'd spent just over two days in Antakya, where 2000 years ago, St. Paul had established the first church. My hosts in Antakya were Dr. Firuz Harbiyeli, his wife Duthan, and their dog Finest. Firuz, a urologist whose white mane was reminiscent of Mark Twain, speaks a little English but Duthan (and Finest) do not. However, we were still able to make ourselves understood and have a great time. Firuz and I played tennis on Saturday afternoon after we had lunch with Duthan. He was able to improve my racket handling skills using phrases like "Victor! Racket! Parallel to leg!" During lunch, Firuz and Duthan were referring to their phrasebook and I was using mine. At one point Duthan and Firuz exchanged high fives after a successful bit of dialogue.

Duthan and Firuz Harbiyeli

By the end of the weekend, I'd become close with these hosts as I have with all the others so far on the trip. It was my first experience with a real language barrier, as my previous hosts Bahadir, Taylan and Meryem were all English speakers. However, despite the linguistic obstacle, the weekend was "cok iyi" (very good)!

Turkish industry and hospitality

2005-05-13T16:42:00.000-06:00

It's been another busy day so far. After our group was introduced to the mayor of Iskenderun this morning, we toured a steel pipe manufacturer http://www.noksel.com.tr/ and a steel mill http://www.ekinciler.com/. The steel maker, Ekinciler, sells to 60 countries, including the United States. Visiting these two companies, as well as the ANT Group in Adapazari, made me realize how Westernized Turkey's businesses and industries are. Economically, the country seems ready to join the EU.

Turks who I've spoken with have differing opinions on whether Turkey should join. Bahadir felt the priority should be eastern-facing, looking toward resolving issues with the Kurds and other ethnic groups within Turkey. Meryem felt that Turkey should join, citing the potential benefit to the economy.

The industry here seems as solid as the hospitality. I'm writing this journal entry in the office of an accountant from our host Rotary club, who gave Lisa, Bethany, Steve and me the computer usage priority over his own employees - and then had those employees bring us soft drinks and ice cream!

At every stop - from people's homes to governors' offices - we've been offered glasses of cay ("chai", tea). The whole country uses the same standard, tulip-shaped glass for serving Çay. It is a bit funny to be in a solemn setting like a mayor's office, with Ataturk glaring down from a portrait at us, and to hear no sound but the "ding-ding" of spoons stirring glasses.

Oil filters and tobacco filters in Iskenderun

2005-05-13T09:40:00.000-06:00

Yesterday we toured and had lunch at ASAS, an oil filter factory in Iskenderun. After the tour, the owner asked us each what kind of car we drove, so he could give us each a new oil filter.

After this, we toured a new hospital, which opened in İskenderun in the past few months. We sat in the office of the hospital administrator, who is a member of our host Rotary club, and I was struck by seeing a Marlboro ashtray on his desk. It actually served as the paperweight for a Rotary banner as photos were taken. To the Turks, seeing an ashtray in a hospital director's office might be perfectly normal. Being an American, and especially being from health-conscious Colorado, it seemed odd at first.

Later last night we gave our presentation to the Iskenderun Rotary club, then attended a post-meeting cay party. After this I went home with my host, Meryem and her husband, where we listened to Bob Marley and talked politics.

Meryem Ciftci with her sister-in-law, friend, and cat

Belly dancing, departure to Iskenderun

2005-05-12T10:25:00.000-06:00

We left Nevsehır late Wednesday nıght, after takıng incredıble photos of the sunset over the chimney rock formatıons and spendıng the day visıting an underground city and several cave churches from the early centuries B.C.

Other than the Turkish bath, one of the highlights of our stay in Nevsehir was the Cappadocia Rotary meeting on Tuesday. After the meeting, the stage was moved aside and club president Ercan Turhan invited everyone to participate in belly dancing. Lisa, Bethany and Jan all got their groove on to the Turkish music, and the Cappadocians and I eventually joined in, turning the event into something resembling a conga line.

After boarding the bus from Nevsehir at midnight on Thursday morning, we journeyed eastward to Iskenderun for seven hours, arriving early this morning...about 12 kilometers past our stop. The host families came to pick us up, and brought us back westward a bit to Iskenderun. I will be staying for the next three days at the home of Meryem Ciftci and her husband. Meryem is a former English teacher who now works in her father's coal exportıng company. She had participated ın a GSE trip to Australia in 2003.

Cappadocia's landscape and handicrafts

2005-05-11T07:41:00.000-06:00

Yesterday we had a guided tour of Cappadocia, includıng the rock formations, underground city, churches carved into rock, as well as tours of a pottery maker and a carpet weaver.

At the pottery maker, http://www.gurayseramik.com.tr, we were shown how the pottery is made, then each person was given the opportunity to try a hand at making pottery. Afterward we were told what each piece represents.

At the carpet weaver, we were given a behind-the-scenes-tour of the looms, explained the difference among silk, wool, and wool-on-cotton carpets, and shown examples of carpets from each region of Turkey.

Turkish Bath

2005-05-10T09:50:00.000-06:00

If you have two hours and 40 lira, it is well worth indulging ın a Turkısh bath. Our hotel, the Nevsehir Dedeman, has a spa that includes this great amenity.

The bath began with me layıng on a stone slab (the "waiting slab"), letting the steam soak into my pores. Then I moved to the main slab, where Turkish and Azerbaijani women poured hot water on me, scrubbed me head to toe wıth a luffah sponge (exfoliatıng, they saıd) and gave me a deep massage.

Then they sat me up, poured more hot water on me to rinse me, then I dried off and continued to a separate room for a "dry" massage, whıch lasted another 20 minutes.

Followed by a glass of raki, thıs was an enjoyable and relaxing experience!

Farewell to Adapazari; Hello to Nevsehir

2005-05-09T11:13:00.000-06:00

We had a wonderful weekend ın Adapazari, capped off wıth lunch on Sunday at the Black Sea, where the Sakarya Rıver empties into it. Thıs was a weekend that wıll be hard to beat. From our arrıval on Frıday night, to the visıts at the University and wıth the city and province leaders, to Saturday's road trip to Istanbul, we had a great tıme with our hosts.

Durıng our tour of Istanbul, we had lunch at the Grand Bazaar and mıne was eskendar, a meat dısh wıth fries and yogurt. After lunch we toured Dolmabace Palace and cruised down the Bosphorus, and then our group feasted on a popular baked potato snack. Mıne was fılled wıth beef sausage, cheese, onıons, spıces, and ketchup. My instestines protested vehemently, but my new Turkish frıends helped me realıze that Turkish coffee is just as good as Pepto Bismol at releıvıng "ishal".

After the dınner, Bethany and I each got stuck ın the long line for the paıd restrooms. A search party was sent for us; the Adapazarı Rotary presıdent gave me grief for the rest of the weekend, at every turn kiddingly askıng me, "Where Vıctor"?

Late on Sunday nıght, after givıng our presentation about Colorado to the Adapazarı Rotary club, we boarded a bus for the 8 hour rıde to Nevsehir and arrived this morning. We are staying for the next three nıghts at the Dedeman Hotel, whose general manager is a Rotarıan in the Nevsehir club.

Governor of Sakarya, visit to Istanbul

2005-05-08T12:02:00.000-06:00

Durıng a barbecue on Frıday night at the Onucak residence overlooking Lake Sapanca we found out that we were expected at the governor's mansıon. So we all piled into cars and drove across Adapazari to meet wıth the governor of Sakarya. I gave hım a John Fielder Colorado photography screensaver and he gave each of us a book about Sarakya and some Turkish food.

Ata, Nermin and Taylan Onucak

On Saturday we journeyed to Istanbul where we toured the Dolmabahce Palace. This morning I got to sleep in and had brunch wıth Ata and his famıly. Taylan presented me wıth a pen keychain and letter opener bearıng the ANT group logo. I also tried showıng them the web cam for the kennel where Jesse is stayıng (so their terrier Gizmo could see) but being 2:30 am ın Denver, it was shut down.

Univ of Sakarya, Mayors of Adapazari

2005-05-06T17:24:00.000-06:00

Today I bade farewell to Bahadir and his mom Mekeddes, and our group was driven west from Ankara to Adapazari, where we were handed off along the side of the road to our new host families. For the next few days I will be staying with Taylan Onucak and his family. Taylan is the manager of the Ant Group (http://www.antgroup.com.tr/). Our host families and other local Adapazari Rotarians gave us a tour of the University of Sakarya, including the computer science, music, and theater departments.
After that we visited the mayor of the city of Adapazari, then the mayor of the province of Adapazari. It was an opportunity for the local Rotarians to voice opinions on their various issues and for the mayors, it was another photo op.

Great food and friendly people

2005-05-05T23:43:00.000-06:00

After two days in Ankara, I've finally found five minutes to use the Internet. Tuesday's journey was definitely an eventful one. My checked suitcase was delayed in making the final leg of the trip from Istanbul to Ankara, so I sat with my host, Bahadir, drinking coffee while waiting for my suitcase to arrive. After retrieving the bag, settling in at Bahadir's house and resting for an hour, our team turned around, had dinner with the Ankara-Emek Rotary Club, and gave our presentation.

Bahadir Tanriluku and his mom, Mukaddes

The next day, Wednesday, I participated in a vocational program, visiting Likom (http://www.likom.com.tr/), which makes ERP software for manufacturing companies. Like CQG, they've been around for two decades, perform automated testing and use C#, ASP.NET, and SQL Server. With the laid-back attitude and casual dress code, Likom is just like any IT company in the US, except for the omnipresent cigarettes and ashtrays.

Everyone here smokes. Even at the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk (founder of the modern Turkish republic), which we visited today, there hangs a portrait of Ataturk, leading his troops, cigarette dangling from his mouth.

The Turks are very friendly and hospitable. On Wednesday night, after an afternoon at the Anatolian Civilization Museum and a walk through a bazaar, we were treated to a four-hour feast at a seafood restaurant. At every occasion, from a chat at someone's home to a meeting with a software company, guests are offered tea, coffee, and pastries. The Turks have told us that if we don't return to the US heavier than when we arrived, they will have failed in their mission.

Less than thirty hours left!

2005-05-01T01:27:00.000-06:00

My last Saturday in Denver was spent at a book club meeting with the "Y So Early" swimmers at Mike and Kellun's house. I didn't actually read the book, The Man Who Walked Through Time, by Colin Fletcher. It's relegated to the "after Turkey" pile along with The Basque History of the World, borrowed from Andres, and Arkadiy Averchenko, borrowed from Noskov. I'm glad to have finished Crescent and Star before leaving.

The Man Who Walked Through Time definitely sounds like a good read. It's a first-person story by a hiker who walked through the Grand Canyon in 1963, and how that experience changed him.

Kellun is a English teacher to immigrants, and two of her students, Behan and Mehmet, are Turks from Bandirma, across the Sea of Marmara from Istanbul.

This morning I had the chance to spend more time with the Turks visiting Denver for the month of April. They addressed the Rotary District Conference in Colorado Springs, which my teammates Steve, Lisa and I attended. Our Turkish counterparts are adamant that we spend as much time as possible in Istanbul. Sinan Atmaca of the imbound Turkey team said, "My life will be shortened by 2 years if you do not visit Istanbul!" Sinan is a doctor, so he must know what he's talking about with that lifespan estimate. We'd better visit Istanbul!

The Turks' impression of Colorado's weather is hilarious. Bekir Turgut, a geologist who is part of the visiting team, said, "Your weather is like the woman. It cannot make up her mind. One day it is snowing, the next it is hot and sunny."

Finally done with work!

2005-04-29T20:54:00.000-06:00

Now I can relax! I'm off from work until June 6, and it's been a pretty stressful week wrapping things up. We had a website project that ran into obstacles, and that kept me from finishing some testing.

But that's all off my shoulders now, and right now I'm importing the rest of my CDs on iTunes so I'll have plenty of music for the plane. Our team leaves Monday morning, on a 6:30 flight to Salt Lake City. From there we go to New York, then to Istanbul, then finally to Ankara. It's a 23-hour journey from takeoff to landing.

Welcome to Turkey 2005 Blog

2005-04-24T00:54:00.000-06:00

It's now just over 8 days until I leave for Turkey. This evening I had dinner at the home of my neighbors, Connie and Dave. They visited Turkey in 2001 and shared with me their photo album, books about Turkey in general and Cappadocia in particular, and a map of Troy, with titles in German. This afternoon I got about halfway through Crescent & Star: Turkey Between Two Worlds by Stephen Kinzer.